Cherry Cranberry Muffin Cake
Cherry Cranberry Muffin Cake is just what it sounds like: muffins that have become cake.
Credit for the muffin cake concept goes to Dorie Greenspan. Writing in Baking From My Home to Yours, describes having readied the ingredients for apple nut muffins only to have her brunch guests show up. A rushed Greenspan poured the batter into a baking pan instead, and the muffin cake was born.
Greenspan’s recipe differs significantly from mine, but the credit is hers nonetheless.
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My reasons for baking a cherry cranberry muffin cake did not spring from brunch guests, early or otherwise.
My husband’s recent diverticulosis diagnosis (say that ten times) left me casting about for high-fiber breakfast options he would actually eat. Diverticulosis is incurable: the sole treatment is a high fiber diet. Prior to John’s recent hospital stay, I thought we were consuming a high-fiber diet, full of fruits and vegetables, but evidently it wasn’t enough.
Inadequate fiber.
As if life weren’t complicated enough, John is neither a morning person nor a fan of breakfast. After years of trial and error, I’d found success with muffins. By muffins, do not visualize the enormous, sugar-laden confections found at coffee shops across the land. Think smallish, barely sweetened baked goods loaded with quality dried and seasonal fruits.
One example of many.
While I still consider my tenderly home-baked muffins pretty healthy–I mean, how can you go wrong with minimal sugar and tons of fresh fruit?–I went one better with this muffin cake by adding nuts.
A momentary digression about nuts in my cooking, or lack thereof.
Laurie Colwin fans may recall the opinionated Holly Sturgis, of Happy All the Time. The elegant if idiosyncratic Holly eschews ice in drinks and dislikes foods with orange flavoring. Oranges themselves, however, are just fine.
I share Holly’s feelings about nuts, albeit in reverse, particularly where almonds are concerned. I’ll explain.
Neither Amaretto nor Nocino.
Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome has ruined my teeth. Soon I will require full dentures. I actually look forward to this, as dentures will restore my ability to smile confidently and chew hard foods. Like nuts. Until then, I prefer nut-flavored items, like Amaretto and Nocino.
Hence the lack of nuts in my cooking. Until now.
Of course, tossing whole nuts into cake batter is never a great idea. Nuts require prep: toasting, blanching, breaking down.
Then again, we are talking muffins. Inherent in muffin making, be it in a muffin tin or baking pan, is the notion of quick bread. Meaning nobody wants to spend time cleaning a mini-processor or coffee grinder afterward.
Toasting nuts warms their oils and improves flavor. You can skip this step; it won’t ruin the recipe. (that was the sound of a thousand professional bakers, shrieking.) My advice, if you want to avoid toasting nuts, is to treat them like spices: ensure they are fresh by purchasing them in small amounts, from a store with rapid turnover. Store nuts in a cool spot. I keep mine in the freezer.
You will notice my almonds are not skinned. Despite multiple efforts, the skins stubbornly refused to come off. After multiple attempts, I moved on. Life is too short.
Those of us wishing to avoid mechanized nut grinding–and subsequent washing up–have a few manual options:
–bashing with a heavy implement
This is effective, provided you have an unbreakable surface and something to bash the nuts with. Cover the nuts with a towel and bash carefully, or the nuts will fly. A metal meat mallet or rolling pin make good implements. Some cookbooks suggest empty wine bottles, but there’s a risk of breakage, so take care.
–chopping with a mezzaluna or other heavy, sharp knife
Use the side of the knife, aiming the sharp edge AWAY from you. Again, proceed with utmost caution.
–mortar and pestle
I used this method, and found it most effective. It’s also the safest.
The cherry pitter is that rare kitchen item that does one thing, is useful three weeks a year, and is worth the $15 bucks I spent on it.
Dried cranberries and almond extract were the final additions to the muffin cake. I scattered an extra handful of sugar over the cake just before baking.
Not sugar. But you get the idea, right?
The cherry cranberry muffin cake takes 40-50 minutes to bake. If the top starts browning too much, cover it lightly with foil. A tester should come out clean.
Cherry cranberry muffin cake isn’t especially sweet, making it nice breakfast or midafternoon snack. Serve alongside fruit, with coffee, tea, or milk. It keeps well at room temperature for a few days. Refrigerate after that. The cherry cranberry muffin cake also freezes well, a useful trait in these unpredictable times.
Cherry Cranberry Muffin Cake
The original muffin cake appears in Dorie Greenspan’s Baking From My Home To Yours, but this recipe is very different from hers.
Please see Notes/Theme and Variation, below, for, well, variations.
You’ll need the following equipment to bake cherry cranberry muffin cake:
one 8 inch/20 cm square cake pan or a 12-well muffin tin
two large bowls
one small bowl
one large spoon
one flexible spatula
I use a small bowl for cracking eggs, but if you are a skilled egg cracker, skip this.
one heatproof measuring cup for melting butter
two 2-cup/500-gram measuring cups
4 ounces/120 grams sweet butter, melted
2 ounces/60 grams almonds or walnuts
approximately 6 ounces/160 grams cherries, unpitted weight
1 ounce/28 grams dried sweetened cranberries
1 scant teaspoon almond extract or Amaretto liqueur
2 cups/500 grams all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
4 ounces/120 grams-6 ounces/160 grams sugar (depending on personal preference)
1 cup/227 grams milk, half-and-half, cream, or yogurt
Preheat the oven to 350F/180C
Butter an 8×8/20×20 square baking pan or a 12 well-muffin tin. If you wish, you can scatter sugar over the bottom of the pan/muffin wells.
Melt the butter. I do this in 10-second bursts, using the microwave. Don’t walk away, lest the butter explode. Believe me, this is a mess you don’t want to clean up.
I put the melted butter aside on the oven while mixing up the batter.
To toast nuts, spread them in a single layer in a small pan and place over medium low heat. Toast gently, 4-5 minutes, shaking pan occasionally, paying close attention. When the scent rises, they’re done. See notes, below, for instructions on oven toasting.
To blanch nuts, drop them into a pan of boiling water for 10 seconds. Drain and rinse under cold tap. Repeat. Tip nuts on to a clean dishtowel and rub gently. Skins should come off easily.
Nuts need to be need to be broken down, but not pulverized. Various approaches are discussed in post. Ultimately I used mortar and pestle. A grinder or small processor could also be used. Put the nuts in the small bowl.
Pit the cherries. Lacking a cherry pitter, cover the cherries with an old dish towel and crush them with the flat side of a chef’s knife. Add them to the small bowl.
Add the dried fruit and extract to the bowl.
Pour the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into one of the large bowls. Mix briefly with the big spoon.
Crack the eggs. Add them to the second large bowl.
Add the sugar and dairy to the eggs and mix well. Pour the butter into the mixture, stirring all the while.
Carefully add the dry mixture to the wet. Now add the small bowl of fruits and nuts to the big bowl and stir everything together. You want the batter to be just blended; a few lumps are fine. Do not over mix.
Spoon the batter into the baking pan (or muffin tin). A flexible spatula is helpful here.
I add a final scatter of sugar across the top of the cake before putting it into the oven, but that’s optional.
Bake cake 45-50 minutes. If the top is getting to dark, lightly cover it with foil. Cake is done when tester comes out clean.
Place on rack and allow to cool completely.
Serve Cherry Cranberry Muffin Cake from the pan. It keeps at room temperature, covered with foil or plastic wrap, up to 4 days. Refrigerate up 4 days afterward, or remove from pan and wrap well in foil, plastic wrap, or a plastic freezer bag up to three months.
Notes/Theme and Variation:
The dairy element in Cherry Cranberry Muffin Cake and its many variations is variable. I use whatever is in my fridge: half-and-half, yogurt, cream. While you can use 2% or skimmed milk, the resulting cake will have a drier crumb and poorer keeping qualities. Bear in mind that cherry cranberry muffin cake contains less sugar than commercial pastry and has no processed ingredients.
Nuts may be toasted in the oven, but because the cake needs to be baked at 350F/180C, I call for stovetop toasting. To oven toast nuts, heat the oven to 325F/160C, spread nuts on a baking tray and toast 5-7 minutes.
Walnuts, pecans, or peanuts can replace the almonds. Or omit the nuts entirely.
Try baking the muffin cake with blueberries, blackberries, boysenberries, pears, plums, or apricots. Frozen fruits work, too. Pat them dry before adding to batter.
Avoid baking with strawberries, as their high water content makes baked goods sodden.
Instead of topping the muffin cake with sugar, try glazing it with a mixture of confectioner’s sugar and lemon juice. Drizzle over the cake as it cools. (European readers: confectioner’s sugar is caster sugar).
For a savory version of the muffin cake, prep the baking pan with butter and flour. Decrease the sugar content to 3 teaspoons (I would use one teaspoon, but I dislike sugar in savory foods). Omit the extracts. Keep the nuts, if desired. If you like dried fruits in savory foods, include a tablespoon (or less) of dried cranberries or currants. Add a handful of chopped fresh herbs–parsley, oregano, basil are all delicious in quick breads–along with a minced garlic clove or a finely chopped green onion.
If fresh herbs elude you, dried are always available. Start with a half-teaspoon and stay within the same flavor family; a muffin bread containing curry powder and mixed pickling spice will taste rather odd.
Try savory muffin cakes with sumac, coriander seed, paprika (smoked, hot, or sweet), fennel seed, and cumin. Or make a muffin cake using dried garlic, celery salt (go easy, as celery salt is very salty), dried parsley, oregano, and lots of freshly ground pepper. Stir in first-quality dried tomatoes preserved in olive oil, with a finely minced garlic clove. Anchovy lovers might sneak a couple rinsed filleted fish.