Easy Scallion Kimchee

Loyal readers–thank you, by the way, how amazing to even write those words–may have noted my fondness for fiery foods, a preference John doesn’t entirely share. Moderately spicy foods are okay with him, but when I dig into the Chinese hot mustard, peppers scoring off the Scoville charts, and dishes like this one, I’m dining solo.

This quick kimchee hails from David Tanis’ One Good Dish. Tanis learned the recipe from his “friend Russell,” a cook whose Korean-born mother often prepared it. Tanis is referring to Russell Moore, of Oakland, California’s Camino Restaurant, one of the hottest seats in town. Should you live outside NorCal and have $35 beneath your mattress, check out This Is Camino, Moore’s equally hot cookbook, co-written with Alison Hopelain and Chris Colin. In the spirit of full disclosure, or more accurately, non-disclosure, despite living mere miles from Camino, I’ve never eaten there. Nor do I have the cookbook. And I know I am the poorer for both.

Tanis likes adding these fiery scallions to ham sandwiches and ramen noodles. I like them straight, or stirred into rice. Whatever your fancy, caveat cooktor: scallion kimchee isn’t for the faint of palate. But for those of us who can’t get enough of the fiery stuff, this is a recipe comprised of ingredients you likely have around, cooks itself, and is ready in a day–two, should you prefer a stronger ferment–and like all fermented foods, has an addictively healthy kick.

I have adapted the recipe so slightly that it’s barely changed–Tanis uses sesame seeds, I don’t. Sometimes I swap Korean red pepper flakes for plain old supermarket red pepper flakes; I’ve been satisfied with both results. Tanis calls for raw sugar or dark brown sugar. I use brown sugar without fussing over type. Tanis grates the ginger. I prefer mincing it.

If you wear contacts, or are sensitive to hot pepper, use gloves or take care to wash your hands with hot soapy water before touching your eyes or mouth.