Oxtail Stew with Radishes and Carrots
We’re very fond of oxtail at the IK. Evidently lots of other people are, too, because when I made it a few weeks ago, and did the instagram thing, the post got lots of likes. Which is extremely important these days, right?
Well, not really, what with Australia in flames and the political situation and Buck Henry and Elizabeth Wurtzel. (And now, Neal Peart. Neal!)
I could go on. But you follow the news. Or maybe you don’t, because it’s so terrible.
Anyway, oxtail.
This being a hardworking part of the animal, we’re not talking stir-fry material. Unless you have a pressure cooker. Or an Instant pot. In which case, have at it.
Random photo. Kaiser Permanente knocked down the old hospital. Paradise was not paved to put a parking lot. Nothing is here but a large plot of land. Fenced. With signs warning against trespassing.
Anywhoo. Stew. There are two ways to make ’em: the first calls for chucking everything into a pot. The second is what I call “the Big Paula method,” because I learned it from reading Paula Wolfert.
The Big Paula method involves a bit of prep up front, but the results are worthwhile. After a few Big Paulas, you’ll have the method down. You’re going to brown the oxtails–a messy affair–and then you’re going to reduce some wine. In all, this takes about forty-five minutes.
Stews are amiable dishes. Hate radishes? Don’t use them. No carrots? Don’t fret. Just about any root vegetable works here, save beets. And even beets might work. I wouldn’t know, not being a fan. Turnips, rutabagas, every variety of onion, parsnips, and potatoes: all get along in stew.
These root vegetables could set as an example for some people. But we won’t go there.
As for liquid, you need not be wedded to the canned tomato. Broth is nice here–chicken, beef, or even vegetable. Do try to refrain from using those insanely expensive “artisanal” bone broths available at upscale markets. Make your own and send what you would’ve spent to Australia. Or use water. People forget about water when cooking. Water is just fine.
Not water.
Season carefully: salt and pepper, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, should one be handy. Cheesecloth and butcher’s twine are nice but not necessary. I wrapped my spices up neatly in cheesecloth, then decided to take their photo. You can guess what happened next.
About reducing that red wine: I use the pan’s handle rivets as a visual guide:
Notice how much lower the wine level is in relation to those four rivets:
Sorry for the crummy photo quality, but I didn’t want to spatter the camera.
As part of my involvement with the Greatest Tomatoes From Europe Campaign, I was sent a gigantic box of Italian pasta. I prepared these shells to serve with the oxtail, and they were wonderful.
Oxtail also pairs with the usual suspects: mashed potatoes, rice, polenta, orzo. A salad is nice, too.
Oxtail, like all stews, benefits from an overnight rest. The flavors meld and the fat rises to the top, allowing easy removal. And anything making life easier during these difficult days, no matter how trivially tiny, is welcome.
Oxtail Stew with Radishes and Carrots
four oxtails serves 2 people; recipe is easily scaled upward
cooking time: about three hours
Ingredients
Bouquet garni: bay leaf, sprigs of thyme and rosemary, parsley sprigs and leaves (all optional; use some or none), wrapped loosely in cheesecloth and tied with butcher’s twine (see notes)
A little olive oil, for browning the oxtails
one bunch radishes, breakfast type or multicolored, if available
3-4 orange or multicolor carrots, scrubbed if organic, peeled if not, sliced into chunks
one medium yellow onion or large shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
3-5 large garlic cloves, crushed, peeled, and roughly chopped
a small piece of bacon, pancetta, ham, or salt pork-about the size of your thumb (optional)
2 cups/15 ounces/474ml canned tomatoes with their liquid
1 tablespoon tomato paste (optional but good)
approximately 1 pound/454 grams oxtail, which is about 2-3 oxtails, sliced (see note)
a splash of brandy or Armagnac
1 750ml bottle decent red wine
salt and pepper
Instructions
Oxtail benefits from presalting, which may be done up to three days ahead of cooking. To presalt, use one teaspoon salt to every pound meat. Cover loosely and refrigerate until one hour before cooking.
You will need a large saute pan to brown the oxtails and reduce the wine. You’ll also need a braising vessel of some sort to cook the stew. I used a Staub “Everyday” pan, which is 14 inches/35cm. I didn’t use the lid, but you might want to have one handy. Foil will work if you don’t have a lid.
Oxtail stew may be prepared atop the stove or in the oven.
One hour before cooking, remove oxtail from refrigerator.
If you plan to use the oven, preheat it to 325F/160C.
Set your braising vessel on an oven burner. Film braising vessel lightly with olive oil and turn burner to lowest heat. Add your bouquet garni or loose bay leaf/thyme sprig/rosemary.
Add the vegetables, onion, garlic, bacon, tomatoes, and tomato paste to the braising pan. Turn the heat up to medium low–you want a gentle simmer. Now turn your attention to browning the oxtails.
Open a window and turn on your oven fan. I keep a jar for discarding grease; once it’s full, I throw it in the garbage. If you have a better idea, do tell.
Set a large cast iron or stainless steel saute pan on the stove. Film it with olive oil, and turn the heat to medium high. Give it a few minutes to heat up. Carefully add the oxtails. Don’t crowd the pan.
A real chef would brown each face of the oxtail. I am not a real chef, and brown the top, bottom, and at least one side of each oxtail. The meat is ready to be moved when it releases from the pan. Once you’ve browned each piece, transfer it to the braising pan. Take care, as fat enjoys spattering.
Allow the pan of fat to cool completely before pouring off the fat. I try to clean up a bit now, mindful things are hot.
Deglaze the spattered pan with brandy, scraping up the fond. Pour in the wine, crank up the heat, and let it reduce until syrupy. I use the pan rivets as a visual guide; this takes about ten minutes. (See discussion and photos in post, above.)
Pour the reduced wine into the braising pan. Add salt and pepper to the stew. Using oven mitts, tuck it into the oven. No lid necessary.
Cook the oxtail for 2-3 hours, checking liquid level and meat browning. I turned my oxtails once. They needed no additional liquid. Cooking time will vary according to your oven and the type of pan. If your stew needs liquid–it really should not–you can add more wine, water, or broth.
Oxtails are done when the meat is fork tender and pulling away from bones.
You can serve the stew immediately, but it will improve enormously from an overnight rest.
Serve with the noodles discussed above, mashed potatoes, or your preferred starchy accompaniment: orzo, polenta, bread, or mashed potatoes. A green salad is nice, too.
Oxtail Stew keeps up to five days, refrigerated. The meat freezes well, but the vegetables would suffer.
Notes:
Oxtails are sold sliced–or jointed–in the United States. If you are purchasing a whole tail, ask the butcher to slice it for you.
I like wrapping spices in cheesecloth because they’re easy to find and remove at the end of cooking. But this isn’t necessary. You can just place your spices at the bottom of the pan and remind diners not to eat them. Or fish them out before serving.
This recipe is very flexible-feel free swap out the vegetables.
Oxtail stew may be prepared in a crock pot by following all the steps up to placing the stew in the oven–instead, place it the Crock-Pot insert, set the pot in the on the low setting, and cook for 6-10 hours, depending on your pot.
You may also prepare the stew on a stove burner. Use a low setting: you know your stove better than I do. I once made a stew by starting it on the stovetop and then moving it into the oven. Total cooking time was three hours. The stew was delicious.
Stews may also be “nursed” along: cook for two hours at 325F/160C for one day, and finish it the next by cooking it another ninety minutes to two hours at the same temperature.
