Braised Short Ribs
adapted from Paula Wolfert’s work and techniques
serves: 2-3 with leftovers
prep time: 3-4 hours cooking time; optional overnight marination and optional overnight rest after cooking
2 pounds/1 kilo bone-in short ribs, organic if possible.
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 large onion, peeled and diced
3-4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
3 potatoes, peeled and chunked; see notes
I 15 ounce/454 g can tomatoes (I used a home-canned pint)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cups/450ml robust dry red wine
1/4 cup/60ml Armagnac or brandy (optional)
Sea or kosher salt
black pepper
Bouquet garni:
bay leaf
a few parsley stems
a few thyme sprigs
Optional Pork:
1/2 to 1 pig foot or
2 ounces/60g pancetta, cut into lardons or
2 ounces/60g unsmoked bacon, cut into lardons
olive oil
Presalting the short ribs:
Up to three days before preparing the stew, salt the short ribs, using 1 teaspoon sea or Kosher salt per 1 pound/454g meat. Cover loosely and refrigerate. While optional, this step imbues the meat with flavor. You will use far less, if any, salt at table.
An hour before cooking, take meat from refrigerator and bring to room temperature.
You will need a large skillet and a 4-6 quart/liter oven-proof casserole, ideally enameled cast iron, but whatever you have. Lidded is best. Lacking a lid, use foil.
Preheat the oven to 325F/160C
I prefer browning meat in a separate skillet. That way, if anything burns, it’s easily wiped away. Further, I’ve had bad luck browning in enameled cast iron, and using a metal skillet easier.
Place the casserole on a burner and film it lightly with olive oil. Turn the heat to the lowest setting. Lay the bouquet garni in the bottom of the pot. Add the pork, if using.
Set the skillet on another burner and add a little olive oil. Turn this burner to medium high. You may want to open a window or turn on the exhaust fan.
A splatter screen is helpful here.
Brown the short ribs on all sides. Depending on the skillet size, you may need to do this in batches. Don’t crowd the pan, and don’t rush. It could take ten minutes per rib.In the photo below, you can see how far I took my short ribs when browning.
Once the meat is browned, transfer it to the casserole.
If there are any burned bits in the skillet, wipe them out carefully with paper towels. Take care not to burn yourself.
Add the red wine and optional Armagnac to the frying pan. Turn the heat to medium high and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wood or metal spatula to get the browned bits up. Crank up the heat and reduce the wine. A splatter screen is useful here. I use the pan rivets as a visual guide: when the liquid is below the rivets, it has reduced sufficiently.
Add the onion, garlic, carrots, and tomato paste to the skillet. Stir, allowing the vegetables to cook about five minutes. Add the tomato sauce. Stir. Let this cook down about ten minutes. Taste for seasoning. Remember pork products can be salty.
Add contents of skillet to casserole, along with the potatoes.
Crumple a piece of dampened baking parchment atop the stew, then the lid. Using oven mitts, place pot in oven. Check ribs after two and half hour: they may need additional cooking. They are ready when meat has pulled from the bones and is fork tender.
Braises improve after an overnight rest in the fridge.
Serve short ribs with buttered noodles or mashed potatoes and a green salad. Fruit and cheese make a nice dessert.
Notes:
Either waxy or starchy potatoes work here; it depends on whether you prefer them to hold together or crumble a bit. Either way is good.
A well-rinsed, dried salted anchovy may be substituted for pork. You won’t taste fish or salt, just flavor.
Chicken broth may replace wine in this dish. Use unsalted chicken or beef broth.
I love this with Amora mustard.