Cheese Biscuits
Laurie Colwin calls biscuits “the utility infielder of the culinary world.” As nobody knows less about sports than I do, I take this to mean their virtues are many: taste, simplicity, ease of preparation. You need neither specialty equipment nor fancy ingredients to bake these. You can make them savory, as I have here, or add sugar and fruit for a sweet biscuit.
Colwin, who died at age 48 in October 1992, wrote two essay collections about cooking: Home Cooking and More Home Cooking. These books, which remain in print, are beloved by Colwin’s fans, who continue to mourn her. My paperback copies are falling apart from use and will soon require replacement.
This recipe comes from More Home Cooking. Colwin suffered from hypertension and did not use salt in her cooking. I’ve added a pinch of sea salt here, but you could leave it out.
Cheese Biscuits
Adapted from Laurie Colwin’s More Home Cooking
Yield: 18 medium round biscuits
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
pinch salt (optional)
1/2 stick unsalted butter, sliced into pieces
3/4 cup -1 cup milk, half and half, buttermilk, heavy cream, or a mixture of milk and yogurt
optional additions:
generous 1/4 cup grated cheese
thinly sliced scallions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Put the flour, baking powder, and pinch salt, if using, into a large bowl. Using your fingers or a pastry blender, blend the butter with the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add cheese and scallions, if using. Beginning with 3/4 cup milk, add to the flour, either stirring with a large spoon or mixing with your hand until the dough coheres. I prefer to use one hand in a claw fashion. If dough is crumbly, add a little more milk. It will come together.
Dump on to a lightly floured countertop or large board and knead briefly. Mine was still pretty shaggy at this point; I added a bit more milk. I’ve noticed I have to add more liquid to bread recipes. I suspect it’s the drought conditions in California.
Roll out to about 1/4 inch. Cut biscuits with cutters, knife, or a glass to the size you wish.
Place on an ungreased baking sheet and bake 15 minutes.
Colwin writes “There is no end to the things you can put in biscuit dough.” These biscuits used the ends of Gouda cheese, but Cheddar, Parmesan, goat, and dry ricotta are all good, too. I’ve made biscuits with cayenne pepper and cumin, minced garlic and thyme. For dairy, I’ve used everything from powdered buttermilk to the heavy whipping cream here, purchased for another recipe that didn’t get made.
What do you eat biscuits with? Personally, I consider a hunk of cheese alongside a pile of these a fine dinner. More health-inclined types could place a couple biscuits alongside their salads, soups, or stews. You might toast a couple for breakfast.
The next couple posts will tackle that most misunderstood of birds, the noble duck. Bearing the French Paradox in mind, a little duck fat on a biscuit is a wonderful thing.
