David Lebovitz’s Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake
Long before David Lebovitz became David Lebovitz, he wrote a little book–literally, it’s not even 8 x11–entitled The Great Book Of Chocolate. Within The Great Book Of Chocolate resides a recipe for Cocoa Marzipan Pound Cake.
Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake is full of ingredients that make it a resoundly unphotogenic brown: cocoa, almond paste, and sugar. These same ingredients also make the cake delicious: almond paste gives depth and a moist crumb, cocoa lends subtlety.
Unlike many desserts out there, Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake is pleasingly sweet without clobbering your taste buds or inducing sugar coma.
Should the occasion demand a fancier cake, follow Lebovitz’s suggestion and make a syrup of Amaretto and honey. Drizzle this artfully over the cake, remembering to pour yourself a glass of Amaretto. No Amaretto in the cupboard? Shake confectioner’s sugar over the cake. No confectioner’s sugar? You need to go shopping.
Cocoa-Marzipan Pound Cake
From David Lebovitz’s The Great Book Of Chocolate
Yield: two 8 1/2×4 1/2 inch pound cakes
Baking time: about 45 minutes
7 ounces almond paste (see notes)
1 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 Dutch-process cocoa powder (I like Droste)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 cup milk
Instructions
You will need either a stand or handheld mixer to bake this cake.
Preheat the oven to 325F
Butter and flour two 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 loaf pans
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a handheld mixer and a large bowl), mix the almond paste, almond extract, and sugar until almond paste breaks down and blends with sugar. This will happen quickly.
In a large bowl, sift flour, cocoa, baking powder, and salt. I hate sifting and use a large whisk instead.
Returning to the mixer, add butter, beating until mixture is fluffy. This can take 4-5 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl with spatula if necessary.
Add eggs one at a time, allowing each to completely blend before adding the next. Scrape down bowl with spatula if necessary.
Stir in half the dry ingredients, scraping bowl with spatula if necessary. Add the milk, then add the remainding dry ingredients.
Divide batter evenly between pans. I find this easiest to do with a large metal spoon and a clean spatula.
Smooth tops of cakes and slide into oven.
Bake cakes for 45 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean.
Cool cakes on wire rack before turning out.
Lebovitz recommends wrapping cakes with plastic wrap and allowing them to rest overnight before slicing so flavors can develop.
Cakes will keep at room temperature, well wrapped, for three days. Double-wrapped, cakes may be frozen up to three months.
Variations:
Lebovitz suggests scattering 2/3 cup sliced almonds atop the unbaked cakes just before baking.
Lebovitz also offers a syrup for the finished cakes: Bring 2/3 cup Amaretto and 3 tablespoons honey to a boil. Pour over cakes before removing them from their respective pans.
I scattered confectioner’s sugar over the baked, cooled cakes. A little cocoa would vanish on the dark surface but taste good.
Notes:
Almond paste and marzipan are not the same foodstuff. Marzipan has more additives. You want pure almond paste. Odense brand, sold in 7-ounce tubes, is expensive but worth every penny. High-end markets sometimes sell almond paste in their chiller cases as well.
It’s crucial that your butter and eggs be at room temperature before you bake. There are scientific reasons for this. And my degree is in English. But I used to be a terrible baker, and one reason was I never gave butter adequate time to warm. Unless your kitchen is over 90F, take the butter out at least four hours before baking. Eggs must also be at room temperature; if you are concerned about egg safety, warm them by placing them in gently (!) heated water. Be careful not to cook them.
I used half-and-half, an American product comprised of half cream, half whole milk, instead of milk, and it worked fine.
