English Rarebit (Toasted Cheese)
The name of this dish was cause for lively discussion on instagram. Is it a rarebit or a rabbit? Is it Welsh or English? All my British friends assured me the dish is now referred to as a “rarebit.” Whether or not it is English or Welsh likely depends on…
Cauliflower Cheese
Cauliflower cheese is what the English call a faff. It is not difficult to prepare, but it takes a little time and dirties a few pots and pans. Just what you want to hear after the holidays, right? Leftover from last post. I could say pseudo-meaningful things about life choices…
Queen Henrietta Maria’s Morning Broth
Long before Pop Tarts or Kellogg’s Rice Krispies were widely available, people breakfasted differently. Then as now, what you ate depended on your societal status. If you were a Tudor monarch, you ate very well indeed. If you haven’t heard of Queen Henrietta Maria, a quick history lesson. Born in…
Elegant Egg Salad Sandwich Savoury
Savouries, like the Foot Guard Uniform and cream teas, are a uniquely British institution. Modern eaters will recognize these salty, spicy, small bites as appetizers, commonly appearing before the meal with drinks. Famous savouries include angels on horseback–that’s a bacon wrapped prune–and Fergus Henderson’s bone marrow and parsley salad. Not…
Cottage Pie
In How To Eat, Nigella Lawson describes the British traditional Sunday lunch thus: Proper British Sunday lunch is everything contemporary cooking is not. Meat-heavy, hostile to innovation, resolutely formalized, it is as much ritual as meal, and an almost extinct ritual at that. With their military vocabulary and timetables, my…
Baps (Scottish Breakfast Rolls)
A bap, if you are wondering, is a Scottish breakfast roll. The recipe below comes from Elizabeth David’s English Bread And Yeast Cookery, published in 1977. David, never one to mince words, rails against the state of English bread. If your copy has American notes by culinary historian Karen Hess,…
Dorothy Allhusen’s Potted Beef
As the world grows increasingly disorderly, I find myself seeking refuge in the past. By “the past,” I mean cookbooks. I don’t have a time machine. Let us turn to Britain between the wars. Built during World War II, but not in Britain. Shot several years ago. — It is…
Candied Citrus Peel
Some people excel at marketing themselves. They read self-help manuals filled with buzzwords; they engage in tactical online behaviors; they practice affirmations before mirrors. Me, I’m terrible at all that. This is a long-winded way of saying I keep forgetting to tell you my photography is now available at Shutterstock.com. You…
Chocolate Gingerbread
This being the holiday season, my non-Jewish spouse asked if I might bake him some Christmas cookies. Jews don’t inherit boxes of Christmassy cookie cutters from elderly relatives. This meant I had to shop for some. (The cutters, not the elderly relatives.) My tribe, we’re good at shopping. In short…
Cardamom Hazelnut Cakes
The quest to make breakfast appealing for John, no kind of morning person, continues. Expecting non-breakfasters to become lovers of the full English is unrealistic at best. Kind of like expecting people to voluntarily surrender their health care. The trick to an appealing John breakfast is simple, portable food: a muffin,…