Nearly Summer Salad
Why nearly summer? Well, I don’t know about where you are, but where I am, it’s still cool. We even had rain a few days ago. More importantly, as salads go, it’s still too early for luxuries like heirloom tomatoes or baby cucumbers. Instead, nearly summer salad relies on some…
Minestrone
For the non-Italian, deciding to prepare Minestrone can feel a little intimidating. Minestrone itself–a substantial vegetable soup–isn’t difficult to make. The problem is deciding which minestrone to make. Elizabeth David, writing in Italian Cooking, gives five recipes for minestrone. In The Essentials of Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan offers a recipe…
Broccoli Rabe with Parmesan Cheese
Broccoli Rabe with Parmesan Cheese began as a calzone filling. And indeed, it works very well in that role. The problem is me: I am hopelessly uncoordinated, and any food I attempt to wrap, stuff, or otherwise fill and fold ends up looking like a badly wrapped gift. No cook…
Cauliflower Cheese
Cauliflower cheese is what the English call a faff. It is not difficult to prepare, but it takes a little time and dirties a few pots and pans. Just what you want to hear after the holidays, right? Leftover from last post. I could say pseudo-meaningful things about life choices…
Buttermilk Potato Gratin
Buttermilk potato gratin came about by mistake. I’d purchased a bottle of buttermilk for another recipe, which never got made, and now it was down to the wire: use up the buttermilk or let it go off and toss it. So I poured it into a potato gratin. The result…
Long-Cooked Broccoli
Long-cooked broccoli comes to us from Paul Bertolli’s Chez Panisse Cooking. I cooked it for years, forgot about it, then recalled it when I began making Paula Wolfert’s green beans with tomato, another recipe calling for long cooking. “Long-cooked” isn’t a euphemism for pap. Prepared with attention and care, long-cooked…
Omelet with Chinese pickled vegetable
Soaring fuel prices are forcing many people, myself included, to reconsider everything we were taught about “good cooking.” Especially now, when we would normally be starting to prepare stews, bone-in roasts, and soups, dishes demanding hours of slow cooking. Gourds. Official harbinger of Fall. Well, these and pumpkin-spiced coffee drinks,…
Summer Squash Soup
I know, summer squash soup now? In September? Well, yes, summer squash soup now, in September. Because zucchini (courgettes to my English friends) are piled high in the markets, along with all manner of yellow summer squash. And my instagram feed is full of posts from my gardener friends, who…
Niloufer’s Tomato Chutney
Chutney was the result of feeling in a cooking rut and wanting to make something different. Granted, this isn’t (fill in complicated recipe here), but it’s new to me. Yes, they need replacing. The original recipe comes from Niloufer Ichaporia King’s My Bombay Kitchen, a book that’s accessible even to…
Green Beans with Mushrooms
Green beans with mushrooms is an easygoing, undemanding dish. Anyone searching for dazzling summertime fare is advised to look elsewhere. I mean, I suppose one could fancy things up with expensive mushrooms or cold-pressed olive oil, but that would lose the point, which is simplicity. Nobody needs some fancypants dish…