The Fried Chicken Wrap

June 7, 2021

 

The ethics of blogging–and yes, such things do exist–contend that three changes to a recipe make it one’s own. So while it would be “ethical” for me to claim I invented the fried chicken wrap, I did not. The original recipe comes from Nigella Lawson’s Cook, Eat, Repeat, where it appears as a fried chicken sandwich.

In the neighborhood.

Said changes make the dish both easier to cook and, in the case of my husband, easier to eat.

We have become the kind of people who grow strawberries. Well, John has. I could kill a field of dandelions.

As deep frying Chez IK is an adventurous proposition, I increase Nigella’s single sandwich serving (there’s a mouthful) to several.

Bay Area Rapid Transit, from across the platform. For the first time in eighteen months.

To that end, I buy one pound (454 grams) of chicken, good for at least four meals in our two-person, measly appetite household. I slice the chicken into strips before marinating it in yogurt spiced with hot paprika, Amora mustard, and a garlic clove. Ideally the chicken marinates from 2-24 hours, but life is not ideal. You know that.

Once it’s fry time, the chicken is dunked in seasoned flour (salt, more paprika). Then it’s fry time. There is no photo of this, as hot oil and photography are a volatile mix.

Given our home’s aged fuses and the area’s dicey electrical grid, a deep fryer is out of the question. Just the other day, appropos of nothing–weather was fine, no accidents, etc–we lost power for two hours. This is not uncommon.

All to say, any frying, deep or otherwise, transpires in a 10-inch cast iron pan.

As I forgot to photograph the pan, I give you my husband’s turntable and this snazzy red vinyl. It’s been sitting there for a week.

I digress.

I fry the chicken about five minutes a side, then transfer it to a 200F/90C oven, ensuring it is cooked through while staying hot and crisp.

Let us take a moment to discuss frying safety. As somebody who once burned three fingers with boiling bacon fat, this is a subject I feel strongly about.

First of all, put down the damn phone.

Lawson suggests using duck fat, chicken fat, or sunflower oil to fry your chicken. I use high-heat organic canola oil, which responds well to–no surprise here–high heat frying. Peanut and grapeseed oils are also good choices. Olive oil, which has a lower smoke point, is not.

Now is the time to use a spatter guard, should you have one. If you don’t, this cheap bit of kitchen kit is easily found at hardware stores, kitchen shops, and supermarkets. While not critical, it is helpful.

If you are interrupted while cooking, or need to leave the stove, either turn the heat down or move the pan off the burner. Do not trifle with boiling oil.

Discard used cooking oil by allowing it to cool to barely warm, then pouring it into a glass jar. Once the jar is full, cap it and throw it out in the trash. I keep canning jars in my fridge for this.

Okay, you’ve cooked all your chicken. The kitchen is a grease tap. How to clean up?

As a former professional house cleaner and full-time neat freak, I clean up grease with white vinegar and Meyer’s Clean Day. If these don’t work, I use ammonia.

Ammonia, diluted or not, is a strong cleaning agent with powerful fumes. It wouldn’t hurt to to sling a mask on. You have one around, right? Be sure to wear gloves, open your windows, and move smallish people to another room. Ditto pets.

We’ve cooked, we’ve cleaned. It’s time to eat our fried chicken wraps.

I serve my Nigella fried chicken wraps with a variety of vegetables and condiments: pickles, lettuce, thinly sliced onion, tomatoes. A stack of tortillas is always on the table, as are bottles of Kewpie Mayonnaise and Huy Fong chili sauce, which, when mixed together, create the ideal sauce.

Leftover chicken is wonderful at any temperature. Reheating it is best in an oven or toaster oven, to re-crisp the coating, but a microwave oven will do in a pinch.

Fried Chicken Wraps

Adapted from Nigella Lawson’s Fried Chicken Sandwich recipe in Cook, Eat, Repeat

Yield: 2-4 servings, depending on eaters’ appetites

Prep time: ideally the chicken should marinate 2-24 hours, but if you are pressed for time, 30 minutes is fine.

Please read notes about safe frying, below

1 pound/454 grams boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs

For the Marinade:

1 1/2 cups/12 ounces/360 grams full fat yogurt (see notes)

1 tablespoon Dijon or Amora mustard

2 teaspoons hot paprika

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced

generous squeeze lemon juice

To Fry:

additional paprika

all-purpose flour

high heat cooking oil like canola, grapeseed, or peanut

To Serve:

Your favorite flour tortillas or flatbread

lettuce, sliced tomatoes, sliced onions, your favorite pickes, and, for my preference, big bottles of Huy Fong hot sauce and Kewpie Mayonnaise

Marinate the chicken:

Two to twenty-four hours before eating, prepare the marinade. Mix the yogurt, mustard, paprika, salt, garlic, and lemon juice in a big bowl.

Slice the chicken into lengthwise strips. Think chicken tenders. Add this to the bowl of yogurt and mix everything together. I do this with clean hands, but you can use a large fork or spoon. Cover and refrigerate, 2-24 hours.

Bring chicken to room temperature before cooking. Cold chicken will spit and fry unevenly.

At cooking time, heat the oven to 200F/90C.

Open your windows and turn on the oven fan. Have a spatter screen, oven mitts, and heat-proof platter or tray ready.

If you have a nonstick pan you trust, go for it. Otherwise, I feel cast iron is the ideal cooking vessel. Once the chicken is cooked, it will release from the pan. I use a 10-inch/25cm cast iron pan. Turn heat to medium high. Pour a generous amount of oil in; you are shallow frying. While the oil heats, turn to breading your chicken.

You can mix the flour and paprika in a giant bowl or large shallow dish, meaning all the chicken goes in at once, but I prefer breading, and frying, in relays. The choice is yours. Shake a goodly amount of flour into your chosen dish–around a half-cup (250 grams). Add a teaspoon each of salt and hot paprika. I use a pasta bowl, which allows breading a few pieces of chicken at a time. Remember making mudpies in the sandbox? That’s what you’re going for. I always make a gloppy mess of this, but I am a middle-aged woman with joint disease in a crappy home kitchen, not a professional cook.

Using tongs, lower a piece of chicken into the pan. It should sizzle. You want frying without burning. You may have to adjust the heat to find the ideal temperature. Once the chicken is ready–about five minutes a side–it will release easily. Don’t feel bad if you lose some of the coating; just prise it out with a spatula and add it to the platter (or eat it). Keep on cooking. You’ll probably need to add a little oil. You’ll also need to add more flour as you bread the chicken.  Cook, flip. Keep cooking. You’ll find the sweet spot. Taste testing is encouraged, just don’t burn yourself.

The cooked chicken can rest in the oven, unharmed, for about 90 minutes while you clean up.

Serve fried chicken with tortillas or other flatbreads, your favorite pickles, Kewpie Mayonnaise, Huy Fong hot sauce (Lawson prefers Chinese Chili Crisp, which is also wonderful), thinly sliced onion, lettuce (Lawson shreds hers, I don’t bother), and tomato slices.

Fried Chicken Wraps are delicious hot, cold, or at room temperature. They will keep, refrigerated in a covered container, up to 5 days. While you can freeze the chicken, the fried coating will become soggy, which ruins all your hard work.

It is best to reheat the chicken in a toaster oven or low oven to recrisp the exterior, but a microwave works in a hurry.

Notes:

Frying isn’t set it and forget it cooking. It’s a bit like making pancakes: the first pieces aren’t perfect. (They taste good, and you don’t need to throw them out.) Put the phone down. If you need to step away from the stove, turn the heat down. Make sure little hands and/or pets can’t get hurt. As mentioned above, I had a hot-oil burn. It’s not something I’d care to repeat. Open windows and turn on your oven fan, if you have one.

Variation:

I haven’t tried this, but I’m going to. Try seasoning the chicken with chaat masala and ground pomegranate instead of hot paprika. A hit of ground cumin would be delicious, too. Use lime instead of lemon, and pita or flatbread instead of tortilla. Lime pickle and mango chutney. Rice.

And by all means, buy Cook, Eat, Repeat.