Peel the tomatoes:

You can peel tomatoes one of two ways. The first is to heat a pot of water on the stove. The second is to heat water in the microwave. Either way, the water should be just boiling.

Cut an X on the bottom of each tomato, or not, and lower into the water. A spider or slotted spoon is helpful here.

If you are peeling more than one tomato, do not crowd the pot. The tomatoes will rise to the top of the pan when ready. Using the spider or slotted spoon, scoop the tomatoes into a bowl. If you are impatient, you can fill the bowl with ice, but the tomatoes cool quickly without it.

While the tomatoes cool, set a fine strainer over a bowl. Prepare a cutting board and knife. Have a bowl for spent tomato halves to hand, along with a roll of paper towels.

Once the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, halve them and remove the stem ends. Now, holding a half over the strainer, remove seeds with a clean finger. Press tomato against the strainer and press gently to expel liquid. Some tomatoes will distintegrate completely. Others leave you with a spent but useful tomato half. Place these in a waiting bowl or other vessel. Continue–this doesn’t take long-until you have about 1/4 cup of tomato water.

I believe in cleaning up as you go. Then again, if I don’t, my kitchen rapidly becomes a disaster area. If you share my predicament, clean up, leaving your tomato water nearby.

Cook the fish:

Place a saute pan on the stove.  Turn the burner to low heat. I used a 12 inch/30 cm stainless steel pan I’ve had forever. Add the olive oil and butter. Once the butter melts, add the wine and garlic. Turn heat up a little. Let the garlic “melt,” as Elizabeth David says, meaning let it cook a bit without browning. If garlic browns, turn the heat down.

Add the tomato water and capers/nasturtium pods, if using. If you think the pan needs additional liquid, add more wine, some water, or a little mild broth.

Add the fish to the pan. Salt and pepper it. Adjust heat, if necessary, so the liquid simmers gently. We don’t want a wild boil here. The fish should cook gently for 3-5 minutes a side. Cover with a lid if you wish. I don’t, as even after years of cooking fish I remain a slightly nervous fish cook.

After 3-5 minutes, turn the fish over. You’ll know it’s time when fish whitens and flesh firms up. Yes, many of you know this. But many people don’t, and nobody ever bothers to tell them, and that’s why people are terrified of cooking fish.

Flip the fish–it’s okay to help matters along with your clean hands, but be careful around the hot pan–and cook for another few minutes. The fish is done when a fork or other cooking implement slides through it easily. Fish will flake and look perfectly white. It will look and smell done. Trust your instincts. If you are doubtful, move fish off burner to check for doneness. Better to have underdone fish and cook it a little longer than the opposite.

Serve fish poached in tomato broth over rice, alongside farro, or with a small pasta like orzo. Or plate it alone and serve a baguette alongside, with a green salad.

Fish poached in tomato water keeps, refrigerated, up to two days. It freezes up to two months.

Tomato water keeps, refrigerated up to five days. It freezes up to six months. To water bath tomato water, see instructions, below.

Notes:

I made this dish in July, when heirloom tomatoes were available. The tomatoes weighed 7-8 ounces/218-250 grams each, yielding roughly 1/4 cup, or 60 ml liquid.

Those wishing to avoid alcohol may substitute light vegetable or chicken broth. Or use water.

Because tomato water is cooked, fish poached in tomato water may be prepared year-round using winter tomatoes or best-quality canned tomatoes. In a pinch, the juices from canned tomatoes may substitute for the tomato water. The dish will be more robust, but it’s still good. The juices from canned tomatoes work especially well with beef, bone-in chicken, and thicker pork cuts. I’d also try it with salmon and shrimp.

Spent tomato halves may be frozen. Use them as you would any fresh tomato: in salads, soups, sauces, or rice.

Please read this link to safely can tomato water. Tomato water must be canned in either a water bath canner or a pressure canner. You must follow canning instructions or you risk falling seriously ill or even dying. Having scared the hell out of you, know that canning is perfectly safe provided you follow instructions.

Great canning resources:

Cathy Barrow: Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry

Eugenia Bone: Well-Preserved

Finally, tomato water is an excellent marinade, either by itself or as an ingredient.  Bear in mind that tomatoes, like lemons, are acidic, and left too long, may denature foods, which is a fancy way of saying they can cause mushiness. So tomato water marinades should be used for a few hours rather than overnight.