Artichokes, Fava Bean and Pea Salad
This morning found me with my head wedged in the oven. Despite my comparatively petite size, I was unable to squeeze in far enough. In an attempt to gain better purchase, I pulled the lower oven rack out. There. Perfect. Tweezers in hand, I wormed myself back in and got back to work.
John was showering. His caregiver, Yolanda, who helps out Tuesday and Thursday mornings, sat at our kitchen table, staring intently into her cell phone, unmoved by my Sylvia Plath imitation.
A magnet would be useful. Extricating myself, I pulled one off the fridge door, slipping it between the tweezers. Another tool would help, something small….an iced tea spoon? Yes, that was it. Jimmying myself back into the oven, I slipped the tweezers/magnet down into the inside face of the oven door. There, in a feat of idiot design, lies a narrow, utterly useless slot…unless you are a wayward canning lid. A few days ago, whilst oven-drying some lids, one tried going rogue, slipping into this previously unknown space.
The IK was mystified as to the lid’s whereabouts–as we so often are (mystified, that is)–but it rattled each and every time we opened or closed the oven door. Which is something, you know, the IK sort of does a lot. Hence this morning’s Sylvia Plath imitation, which failed to arouse the slightest interest in either John or Yolanda, even after the wayward lid was retrieved and waved triumphantly aloft.
At any rate, the more I read the news, the more I am glad to know I fit in the oven.
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So, this salad, or vegetable mixture, or whatever you wish to call it, will never win originality awards. That’s okay. It tastes good, which what we hope for from food blogs–droll entertainment and handy DIY tips aside.
In the summer months, artichokes, peas, and fava beans are to be found fresh, and that’s the time to make this dish. Yes, frozen artichoke bottoms can step in, but jarred marinated ones will not work here, as their marinades are often overwhelmingly vinegary. As for the humble pea, unless you garden or find your peas at farmer’s markets, frozen peas are often better than fresh, which can be starchy.
This leaves us with the fava bean. Only fresh favas work here.
Yes, fresh favas must be shucked and podded. Some find this fussy. I argue it is restful, and entirely worth it. Besides, the fresh fava bean is seasonal, and that season is soon to end.
IK, I hear you say, you live in artichoke country. What about the rest of us?
Take heart. This is a kind, flexible dish. No artichokes? Use only peas and favas. No favas? Use artichokes and peas. You get the idea. Add grated parmesan or a scattering of Ricotta Salatta. Squeeze in lots of fresh lemon juice-my preference–or go the classic Mediterranean route and mince in some preserved lemon. This is the time to open your good olive oil and pour liberally.
This dish is all about prep: lots of peeling and shucking. Listen to the radio, or whatever digital gizmo passes for radio these days. Given all the peeling/shucking/artichoke turning called for here, it seems silly not to make a big bowlful. Your work will pay off: artichoke, fava bean, and pea salad (unwieldy, but what to call it?) goes well with just about everything–fish, poultry, red meat, pasta, paired with some sliced tomatoes.
Incidentally, Sylvia Plath was known to be a fine cook.
Artichokes, Fava Bean, and Pea Salad
yield: 4 cups
Amounts easily scaled up or down.
Note on prep time: this recipe requires prepping artichokes, shucking peas, and shucking/boiling/peeling fava beans. You must boil the artichokes, which takes about 20 minutes, and boil the favas before peeling them, which takes about 4 minutes. All the vegetables are lightly sautéed together, which takes about 10 minutes. The real time is in the vegetable prep. How long this takes depends on how quickly or slowly you do these tasks. None are difficult.
All ingredients are pre-cut, pre-shelled weight
2 pounds fresh baby artichokes (if baby artichokes unavailable, buy the smallest size)
2 pounds fava beans
2 pounds peas
1 lemon, halved
1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
For the finished dish:
1-2 tablespoons best olive oil
lemon juice, to taste
salt and pepper, to taste
Optional additions:
minced parsley
grated parmesan
crumbled Ricotta Salatta
minced scallion
minced preserved lemon rind (replace final squeeze of lemon juice and go easy on salt, if using)
Start with the artichokes. Fill a 3-4 quart non-aluminum pot with lightly salted water. Place on oven over medium heat. Squeeze half a lemon into the water.
To “turn” an artichoke, first slice the top sharp cone off about halfway down vegetable. If the artichoke has a stem, trim the bottom off. Peel with a vegetable peeler until you reach the soft part. Some stems are hard throughout; these are inedible, so slice off.
Now hold the artichoke in your non-dominant hand. Use your dominant hand to tear outer leaves off ruthlessly until you reach inner light yellow leaves. Baby artichokes usually have no choke. Larger artichokes do. If you see a hairy center surrounded by spiky leaves, cut it or dig it out. An iced tea spoon is useful for this.
If your artichokes are larger than baby-sized, cut them into bite-sized pieces.
Artichokes will brown as you work. That’s okay.
Toss artichokes into water. Cover the pot and turn the heat up so water reaches a rolling boil. Cook artichokes until just cooked through, about 20 minutes. A fork should penetrate easily. Do not cook into mush. Drain and set aside.
Save artichoke boiling water for fava beans:
Shuck the fava beans and drop into boiling water. The water you used to boil the artichokes is fine. Cook for 2-4 minutes, depending on the age of your favas. Younger beans need less time. If you are unsure, fish one out with a slotted spoon, cool under water, and test outer skin with a fingernail. If it pierces easily, drain the beans.
While favas cool, shuck peas. Set aside.
Peel fava beans.
In 14-inch frying pan or 4 quart saucier-type pan–I used a Staub “Everyday Pan,” which has a 4-quart capacity, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Squeeze in half a lemon. Add the minced garlic clove. Allow to cook gently for a few minutes. Do not scorch. Add all vegetables, stirring, until done to your liking. Add more olive oil if you wish. My peas were very starchy, so I gave this 15 minutes. It probably needed less time.
Decant into bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and a generous pour of your best olive oil. Stir in any optional additional ingredients, if using.
Artichokes, Fava Bean, and Pea salad is good at all temperatures, but I like it best lukewarm.
Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container for 3-4 days. Do not freeze.
