The Insufficient Kitchen

Chopped Liver

Note: The livers need to be cooked just past pink, but not to rubber eraser. Blood is not kosher, so the pink we normally aim for is verboten here. But take care not to overcook.

How much chicken fat should you use? How long is a piece of string? While ultimately a matter of taste, I ended up using about 1/4 cup, or 60 grams, for one pound (454 grams) of chicken liver.

2 eggs

1-2 white or yellow onions, peeled and roughly chopped

1 pound/16 ounces/454 grams chicken livers, organic if possible

approximately 1/2 pound/8 ounces/227 grams chicken fat

salt and white pepper, to taste (black pepper is okay if no white is around)

Seeded rye bread, crackers, or Romaine lettuce leaves

kleenex, for emotional outbursts (optional)

Hard boil both eggs. You want them cooked all the way through; no soft yolks here. Once they’re done, set aside to cool.

While your eggs cool off, place a heavy-bottomed frying pan on the stove. I used a 9-inch (22cm) cast iron pan. Melt 1-2 tablespoons of chicken fat over medium heat. If you own a splatter guard, use it.

Place the onions in the pan. Salt lightly. Allow them to cook down. You want them really cooked and fairly browned, but not crisp or burnt. Cover the pan with the splatter guard, and uncover every few minutes to move onions around with a spatula.

Once the onions are cooked down, transfer them to a large bowl.

At this point you can check your eggs; if they’re cool enough, peel them and add them to the egg bowl.

Place a colander in the sink. Unwrap the chicken livers and dump them in the colander. Run cold water over them. Now, using either a small, sharp knife, or a scissors, trim any fatty bits or green bile sacs. Rinse again and pat dry.

Wipe out the frying pan and add more chicken fat. How much is, again, your call. I added two scant tablespoons to cook the entire batch of chicken livers.

If your pan is small, do not crowd it. Cook in relays, as I did. Turn heat to medium, and fry livers on one side until browned. Take the cooking slightly past pink, and flip. Again, a splatter guard is your friend here. .

You want the livers cooked through, past pink but not overdone.

Add the cooked livers to your bowl of onions and eggs.

Once all the livers are cooked, you have three chopping options. The first is the processor, but take care not to make mousse. You want some texture. The second is a sharp knife. The third is a mezzaluna.

Chop the livers, eggs, onions, and chicken fat until everything is well blended and holds together but still has some texture. Taste for seasoning. You may want to add more salt or chicken fat.

Serve chopped liver between slices of seeded rye, on crackers, or with sturdy pieces of Romaine lettuce. Dill pickles make an ideal accompanyment.

Chopped liver keeps up to five days in the refrigerator. Freezing is not advised.

Notes:

You want organic livers because of what livers do. Chicken livers are still cheap. Even organic livers.

Chicken fat is sold in tubs, or you can render your own. Either keeps well, refrigerated or frozen.

Most hard boiled egg recipes call for icewater baths. I live in a drought-stricken area, so simply wait for the eggs to cool off.

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