If possible, presalt the lamb chops 1-24 hours ahead of time, using 1 teaspoon fine sea salt/ or 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt per pound meat. Salt the chops on both sides, place in a baking pan, cover with foil, and refrigerate.

Bring lamb to room temperature before cooking.

Crush spices in mortar and pestle or spice grinder if they aren’t pre-ground.

Place a 12-14 inch sauté pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and white wine or Vermouth; you want the liquid to cover the pan bottom but not swamp the lamb chops.

Add the lamb chops. Add the seasonings, including the salt, if you have not presalted the lamb (if you did presalt, don’t add more) and sumac. Cook for about 4 minutes. Some of the spices won’t stick. That’s okay–this isn’t a fancy dish.

At the four minute mark, turn the chops and cook about 4 minutes more, or until done to your liking. We like our lamb on the rare side. If you prefer it well-done, cook a bit longer.

Serve with an herb plate, flatbreads, yogurt, and the cucumber, tomato, and pomegranate molasses salad mentioned above. Or simply serve sliced cucumber and tomato on a plate. This would also be nice with Israeli couscous or orzo.

Persian rice dishes are some of the world’s finest; see Naomi Duguid’s Taste Of Persia or with Jeffrey Alford, Seductions of Rice, for recipes.

The lamb will keep, well wrapped, up the four days in the refrigerator. Freeze up the three months.

Notes: You can reduce or increase the amount of spices, of course.

I buy spices whole and grind them as needed using a mortar and pestle.

Our lamb comes from Niman Ranch; the better your lamb, the better the dish.

Shoulder is a bony cut, but the flavor makes it well worth the hassle of negotiating all those bones.