Nearly Nicoise Salad
adapted from David Tanis’s A Platter Of Figs
Yield: 2-3 servings
amounts easily scaled upward
1 pound sear grade Ahi tuna
1-2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into strips
5 large eggs (I used duck eggs)
4 ounces green beans, topped and tailed
12 ounces Yellow Finn or other small, waxy potatoes, scrubbed (approximately 5)
Mixed variety of heirloom tomatoes, 5-6. Slice just before serving
Small head butter lettuce (mine was 6 ounces)
Nicoise olives
To sear the tuna:
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
sea or kosher salt
pepper
olive oil
For the aïoli:
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1 cup mild olive oil, at room temperature
garlic (to taste); I used one large clove
a little salt, ideally Kosher or Maldon, but use what you have
a little water, if needed
a little lemon juice, if needed
Baguette (optional)
Because I live in drought country, I use one pan of water to cook the eggs, green beans, and potatoes. Here’s how.
If you plan to make the aïoli, remove two eggs from the refrigerator. Set them aside so they can come to room temperature.
Bring a medium pot of water to a rolling boil. My pot is 4 quarts. When the water is boiling, lower 5 refrigerator cold eggs in. Count ten minutes from the time water returns to a boil. Remove eggs to an ice bath, crackling shells against sink or bowl to allow icewater to penetrate shells. This eases peeling.
Keep pot of water boiling.
While eggs cool, salt boiling water with a teaspoon of salt. Lower green beans into water. Cook 4-6 minutes, until al dente or cooked to your liking. Remove to a strainer with slotted spoon or spider.
Add potatoes to boiling water. They will need 12-16 minutes to cook through, depending on size.
While potatoes cook, peel and halve eggs. Put aside or, if you are not eating for a while, refrigerate.
Potatoes are ready when knife point pierces one easily. Drain. Whether or not you wish to peel is up to you. Halve them.
To sear the tuna, crush fennel seeds in a mortar. Sprinkle over tuna with salt and pepper. Get a cast iron pan or griddle hot. Add a very little olive oil. Sear tuna on both sides; how long is a question of personal taste; as you see from the photograph, I barely cooked our fish. You may wish to cook yours longer.
Slice tuna as you wish. At this point the dish can be refrigerated for several hours.
For the aïoli:
It is critical that all ingredients are at room temperature. Some people prefer to use half of a mild oil like safflower; this is a matter of personal preference. Taste as you go, and don’t use a bitter olive oil. Use a mild one.
Crush the garlic clove (s) in a mortar with the salt. You’ll only need about 1/4 teaspoon. Grind the garlic to a paste and scrape it into a wide, roomy bowl. I use a 4 quart Pyrex.
Crack an egg into your fingers and allow the white to fall through. Place yolk in the bowl with the garlic. Make sure the bowl is stable. If it wants to move around, sit it on a wet dishtowel.
Now take a whisk and lightly whisk the yolk until it lightens a bit. Pour a drop of oil in, whisking all the while. When it’s integrated into the yolk/garlic mixture, add a little more oil. Whisk until integrated. Keep going. The mixture will lighten considerably. When you’ve added about a quarter of the olive oil, you can start adding oil in larger amounts.
If mayonnaise breaks, crack that second egg, whisk the yolk in a clean bowl, and gradually add the broken mixture. You’ll have double the mayonnaise. There are worse things in life that lots of mayonnaise.
If the mayonnaise seizes up around the whisk–more likely–loosen by adding a little water.
You may not need or want all the olive oil. Taste, taste, taste. You may want a squeeze of lemon juice or salt.
Aïoli holds, covered and refrigerated, for about three days.
To serve: Arrange ingredients on platters or individual dishes, with baguette.
Any leftover fish should be eaten by the next day. It’s excellent in a sandwich.