Place a large soup or stockpot over low heat. Melt the butter. Add onion, carrot, and celery, stirring constantly over low heat until vegetables are softened and translucent, about ten minutes.

Add bones and giblets to the pot. Add the broth and enough water to cover. Add bay leaf and good grinding of black pepper (about 1 tablespoon). Add the Armagnac, if using.

Bring soup to gentle simmer and allowed to cook for three hours. If your soup is fatty, degrease by staining solids in colander placed over a bowl. Return broth to pot. Place pot half on, half off the burner. Bring broth to a low boil and skim the cool side for about 25 minutes.

Pick over meat in colander, removing any bones, cartilage, and gristle. Break remaining meat into bite-sized pieces and return it to the pot. Heat to low.

Taste for salt: likely you need it. Add 2 peeled diced potatoes (or lentils or rice). Bring soup to a simmer again. Cook for another 1-2 hours.

You can mash potatoes with a potato masher for additional texture, if you wish, but take care, as soup is hot. Serve with a dollop of sour cream, yogurt, or eat all by itself. Good bread is essential.