Make the filling:

Pour about 3 teaspoons olive oil in small frying pan. Turn the heat the medium and cook the scallions. You want to just soften them, about three minutes. Don’t let them brown.

The food processor is best for the next step, but you can use a blender or chop everything very finely with a sharp knife. I used the processor. Tear chicken into processor-sized pieces. Do the same with the artichoke bottoms, if necessary.

Process the chicken, artichokes, and scallions with the metal blade until everything is amalgamated into a thick paste. Scrape into a bowl. Mixture will be grayish and unappetizing looking. Don’t worry.

Mix ricotta in with flexible spatula or spoon, blending well.

Taste for seasoning: mixture may need a good deal of salt and pepper. Add fennel and paprika, if using. Season assertively: it should taste good enough to eat in a sandwhich.

Recipe may be refrigerated 24 hours at this point.

To fill the wontons:

Whisk egg white with teaspoon of water. Have wonton skins, filling, a brush for egg white, bowl of clean water, a clean hand towel, and a large baking sheet ready. It is helpful to line these up on your counter or work area according left to right or vice versa, if you are left-handed.

To fill square wonton wrappers:

Lay one wonton skin floured side down on counter. Place a teaspoon filling in center. Brush egg white liberally around each side of the square.

Now take a second wonton skin and drape it over, floured side up. Press wonton down with fingers, expelling as much air as possible.

Cut the ravioli into a round with a cookie cutter. Press edges of ravioli with fingers to ensure seal.

Lay on baking sheet.

To fill round wonton wrappers:

You can follow the above method if you wish. Or:

Lay one wonton skin floured side down on counter.

Place a half-teaspoon filling in the center of the wonton, just above the midline. If the wonton were a clock, your filling would be between 10 and 2.

Brush the edges with egg white.

Now lift the bottom edge and fold in a half moon, pressing carefully to adhere. Place on baking sheet.

Ravioli may be refrigerated on trays, uncovered, up to 4 hours.

Ravioli may also be frozen in single layers. Lay ravioli on parchment or wax paper and slide into Ziploc bags. They may be cooked directly from frozen.

To cook ravioli:

Heat a pan of water to a rolling boil. Using a large skimmer or slotted spoon, gently lower 4-6 ravioli into the water at a time. They will cook quickly, rising to the surface within 2-3 minutes. Lift out with slotted spoon or skimmer. Handle carefully.

Ravioli taste best with lighter sauces like lemon, olive oil, or butter.

Notes: As wontons vary, I find it tricky to give yields. The chicken filling recipe is definitive, If you weary of filling ravioli, you can put it away for a day. Or use filling in sandwhiches and freeze the wontons. As this calls for cooked chicken, you can also make less filling–a cup, say–to end up with fewer ravioli.

Chard, kale, or mustard greens can replace the artichokes: see this recipe.

Vegetables may be omitted; increase the ricotta cheese.