On Risotto

May 1, 2020

Certain foods carry a mystique around their preparation. Whipped cream, souffles, mayonnaise, pie crusts: all are imbued with advice, caveats, admonishments. Your batterie de cuisine must be immaculate, your hands chilly, your heart resolute. Or you must stir until your arm falls off–this exact wording frequently used. Stir until your arm…

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Pistachio Garlic Sauce

April 13, 2020

I’ve been racking my brains to for a recipe that isn’t pasta. That this took the better part of two weeks bespeaks a profound lack of creativity on my part. A pandemic will do that to a person. The news changes hourly; now we’re told we should wear masks. My…

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Potato Knishes

March 25, 2020

So, hi. Here we are on day whatever, depending on where you live. I haven’t kept count, myself. I’ve been out exactly once in the past ten days. I tried shopping at the local market–a corner shop that stocks vegetables, wine, and some dry goods. The shelves were literally bare….

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Social media is awash in titles like the above. They’re decidedly grim, but no sense messing around, is there? Unrelated pretty picture. I’m sorry if you’re sick of these kinds of posts. Who could blame you? By now you’re probably sick of just about everything. You long to go outside….

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As I write, coronavirus is making its way across the world. People are frightened, and nobody knows what to do. Living in earthquake country means we always keep nonperishables on hand, along with plenty of water. This, coupled with my fondness for cooking, means our cupboards are always full, even…

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Chicken with Water Chestnuts

February 27, 2020

When I was a child, we had a neighbor who was into what was then called “gourmet cooking.” Said neighbor also subscribed to Gourmet Magazine, which he shared with our household. This was during the Gail Zweigenthal years. I admit to finding the magazine dull, but I was a child–under…

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Little Lemon Cakes

February 13, 2020

Too many lemons is a first world problem, but there you are. We have a lemon tree in our yard, but so do lots of other Bay Area inhabitants. Free lemons aren’t always met with appreciation. Searching for a productive way to use up my lemon glut, I turned to…

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Thai-Style Chopped Chicken

February 5, 2020

Before the cultural appropriation police come knocking, know I make no claims of authenticity regarding this Thai-style chopped chicken, save one: it’s delicious. This is an immodest claim, but the ingredients do all the work. And yes, the ingredient list is longish, but committed cooks likely have most of this…

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As I mentioned in an earlier post, I’m working with The Greatest Tomatoes Of Europe Campaign, who sent me more tomatoes last week. They also invited me to meet them at the San Francisco Fancy Food Show, which was held at the Moscone Center January 19-22. I’ll share a few…

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We’re very fond of oxtail at the IK. Evidently lots of other people are, too, because when I made it a few weeks ago, and did the instagram thing, the post got lots of likes. Which is extremely important these days, right? Well, not really, what with Australia in flames…

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