Tomato Soup

January 3, 2024

Of all the recipes a well-intentioned person can offer, soup is perhaps the most difficult to quantify. Laurie Colwin famously wrote about this in the essay “Soup,” found in Home Cooking. For the three people left on the planet who haven’t read Colwin, in brief, she describes soup as naturally…

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Winter Pate

December 20, 2023

You’ve made meat loaf, right? You’ve eaten cold meat loaf, yes? Then you’re halfway to being a an ass-kicking, name-taking charcutier. “Ooooh…pate, I don’t know.” Please. Campagne means “country” in French–which means even your country-ass can make it. Anthony Bourdain (who else?) Les Halles Cookbook Today’s recipe came about after…

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Chard bundles with chicken and pomegranate molasses hereby join the enormous culinary family known as stuffed vegetables. Anyone inclined to create a family tree of stuffed veg would be well advised to park chard bundles on the cabbage side, near the second cousins. You think I sound nuts? Have you…

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A Picture Post

November 20, 2023

A picture post, because I won’t have time for a recipe before Thanksgiving. Apples. Lemongrass. Helen Goh’s Take Home Chocolate Cake, from Sweet. Sunrise, as seen out the study window. Frozen bacon. Borlotti Beans.   Have a safe and happy holiday.    

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Nantucket Cranberry Pie

November 12, 2023

Nantucket Cranberry Pie is not a pie. It is a cake. How it came to be called Nantucket Cranberry Pie is something of a mystery: the recipe comes from Laurie Colwin’s More Home Cooking. There she describes the cake as coming from her friend Ann Gold, who inherited the recipe…

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Pickled Grapes

October 25, 2023

As the holidays ramp up, so does the production of foods falling under the capacious, vague, generally alarming category of edibles labeled “great with a cheese platter.” Let’s not even discuss those foods that are “terrific with charcuterie!” Coming soon to a holiday table near you. Even the most cheese-loving…

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Warm Farro Salad

October 12, 2023

Today’s post, as the world burns, is about warm farro salad. Farro, otherwise known as emmer wheat, has yet to experience the ruinous fame that has struck tahini, quinoa, and miso. Instead of picturing ruinous fame, I give you this funnel on my kitchen windowsill. By “ruinous fame,” think foodie…

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No Churn Chocolate Ice Cream

September 22, 2023

For years I viewed no-churn ice creams as the poor relations of the frozen dessert world. My reasoning went like this: if I was going to eat ice cream, then I wanted to eat the real thing. By “the real thing,” think custard-based ice creams calling for six egg yolks…

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A Photo Post

September 11, 2023

A great deal of cooking has transpired recently. None of it is especially notable. Instead, it is the kind of cooking, or more accurately, baking, that occurs when people know you bake and are in need of three dozen brownies for fundraising purposes. Helen Goh’s Take Home Chocolate Cake, prepared…

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Canned Tomatoes

August 22, 2023

  This is a long post.  I know some people dislike reading long posts, but this one discusses how to safely can tomatoes. If you will never can a tomato in your lifetime, feel free to look at the photographs. If you want to can tomatoes but find my blow-by-blow…

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